The Cow is critical of the grass, or it should be. It doesn't matter where it grazes, there's always different tastes to comment on. So join the cow and cowaround the world!

Cowing Around

Blog Archive

Saturday, April 11, 2015

Thailand 2015: Chiang Mai

Chiang Mai is another huge tourist attraction. Being the second largest city in Thailand, it offers an entirely different vibe from Bangkok, something I enjoy much more. The general atmosphere in Chiang Mai is much more laid back than Bangkok. I guess it’s because the majority of the tourist activities are more recreational and outdoor in nature. It was a very pleasant surprise to find the wide array of activities available in Chiang Mai upon arriving at the airport, greeted by the wall full of brochures introducing activities ranging from handicraft village visits to mountain bike rides to elephant park visits. However that ONE place that really caught my attention was ….. OMG CUDDLE WITH TIGER CUBS!!!!

 photo DSC_6985_zpsd2xj3kky.jpg
This is one store begging for confusion.

 photo DSC_6990_zpsk7bgoapq.jpg
Putting on one of these is how you get your ass kicked!

 photo DSC_6991_zpsfjo6tkap.jpg
Very familiar sight.

 photo DSC_6993_zpssknhjl9y.jpg
The ride of a life time!!!

 photo DSC_6994_zps4broz7x9.jpg
Chiang Mai's downtown looks as though it's having a Grand Prix 24/7 365 days a year!

We arrived on Sunday night, in time for the big event in town, which is the Sunday night market. Walking on Chiang Mai streets, it seemed to be more like a “countryside” atmosphere. There’s no polished high rises like Bangkok. The roads are narrower. I won’t say that the traffic is any better or worse than Bangkok, but it’s simply a lot more manageable. To me it’s a much more relaxing town and definitely more “my kind of town”.

Signs of tourism is everywhere, even more so than Bangkok. Foot and body massages, three different kinds of taxis, food stands, souvenir vendors as well as rug shops that makes you feel intimidated with their hyper eager intention to sell you something.

 photo DSC_7002_zpsq8aqk9fy.jpg
A father selling crepes while the boys use the side-walk as their living room.

The streets were rather empty at this moment because everyone’s at the night market, and that’s where we were heading. However let’s take a step back and talk about something else. Another country altogether, but highly relevant. China. I was actually trying to avoid this topic while talking about Bangkok, but I guess it played a significant part of my experience in Thailand that it should be mentioned. Chinese tourists are no news. They are everywhere for better or worse. However, and to put it in a politically incorrect description, they are sort of like migrating invasive species. It’s a love-hate relationship. Locals love them for the revenue they bring, but dislike the consequences and aftermath they leave behind. Of the most immediate sign of Chinese tourism influence is that on top of English signs, almost every one of it is also accompanied by Chinese translations. In Chiang Mai, there are also lots and lots of Chinese cars on the streets. I don’t mean cars made in China, but cars driven here from China, with Chinese number plates by Chinese tourists. A quick check on Google map shows that it’s not a quick trip by any means. And according a local taxi driver, she complains that Chinese tourists cause many accidents due to their unfamiliarity of local traffic and driving culture. Most significantly, Chinese tourists have changed the way Thai interacts with foreigners. They start to profile them. The westerners are great visitors, but they are mostly low budget travelers, so places like hostels, bars, massage places love them. Chinese tourists want to be treated like an emperor, but a stingy one. They want the best treatment for the lowest price, slashing prices by obscene amounts in the beginning of any bargain negotiations that feels like an out right insult and here’s a story.

 photo DSC_7008_zps0b6ji5nu.jpg

My mom walked pass this clothing store and was interested in an item. A taxi driver that drove us from the airport told us that we can start our bargain from half price, and that’s what my mom did (plus she’s always competitive in this particular activity), and the shop owner, a Chinese descendent who spoke some very slow Chinese said,” You Chinese don’t be too smart!” This is like a soft yet powerful punch in the face, filled with sarcasm that stings. My mom got the message, still liked the item, and bought it at a reasonable price anyways. People in Chiang Mai have developed a particular impression of Mainland Chinese that us non-Mainland Chinese have to find ways to differentiate ourselves from them to avoid being treated the same way. Not bargaining in disrespectful way is one place to start with. The point is, I believe that people in Chiang Mai used to be completely loving folks who show wide open arms for any international visitor. Now that open arms are just as widely open, but with a sentiment that acts like a defensive armor.

 photo DSC_7010_zpsrizly1lj.jpg

 photo DSC_7012_zpswfeskrie.jpg

 photo DSC_7014_zpsuf5kpwqf.jpg

 photo DSC_7018_zpsufpkoosz.jpg
I realized that most Thai food exist in the form of salad.

 photo DSC_7019_zpsosd7psy4.jpg

The Sunday night market is crowded, very crowded and massive. Unlike Taiwanese night markets, the Chiang Mai Sunday night market has more thoughts in its organization. It basically runs through the entire downtown forming a cross, with the main vendors, mostly souvenirs and handicraft related items on the main street and food vendors on the side. There are plenty of signs to remind people that alcohol is banned, with disposable bins regularly placed. Temples share their spaces for visitors to enjoy their meals as well as offer restrooms for public use. It's not just a tourist attraction, but a special night out for the locals too.

 photo DSC_7024_zpsfsd12ucy.jpg

 photo DSC_7025_zpsmpnvdlpd.jpg

 photo DSC_7027_zpsnednh9kf.jpg

 photo DSC_7028_zpscregv6lw.jpg

Another highlight of the trip was a cooking class to learn how to cook Thai cuisine, but first, they took us to a local market to be familiarize with local ingredients. To our surprise, the local market was very clean. One of the most significant sign of cleanliness is the lack of foul smell often associated with traditional markets. Here, they completely separate poultry and seafood from fresh produce and dry goods, therefore the fresh produce and dry goods area is always clean and pleasant. The vendors also took very much care to present their goods in neat ways. It just seems that they take a lot of pride in what they do, which is absolutely admirable. One theory I can come up with to explain this situation is, the cooking class company made a deal with the market that they will bring tourists to this market particularly, and therefore the market vendors make special effort to keep every thing in order. When the market is clean and pleasant, it attracts more locals who are the real money spender. It's a Win-Win situation!

 photo DSC_7175_zpsthr1jch9.jpg

 photo DSC_7206_zps4pxozs08.jpg
Cars and mansions and electric fans for the deceased. May be hot down there, just in case.

 photo DSC_7176_zpshmllwbms.jpg
Eggs of all sizes!

 photo DSC_7177_zpskpjfzsrl.jpg
The famous Thai rice.

 photo DSC_7182_zpsqqqcjal6.jpg

 photo DSC_7183_zpsb0ryeno5.jpg

 photo DSC_7184_zpsr4hdwqrg.jpg

 photo DSC_7186_zpshfofj4ba.jpg

 photo DSC_7188_zps0hgf2sjl.jpg

 photo DSC_7189_zpskojolcyz.jpg

 photo DSC_7190_zpst1mq9tsy.jpg
Looks crispy!

 photo DSC_7193_zpsdmmiphsp.jpg
Strawberry vendor!

 photo DSC_7194_zpsph9rdyvp.jpg

 photo DSC_7196_zps2vixhrib.jpg
Traditional Thai tea and coffee

 photo DSC_7199_zpskyghwqex.jpg
Girl couldn't hold her laughter from the comedy she was watching and shares it with her dad.

 photo DSC_7200_zpsy6gdi2hg.jpg

 photo DSC_7201_zpsdnptijah.jpg

 photo DSC_7207_zpsejskjnbl.jpg
Making coconut milk.

 photo DSC_7210_zpslom955tq.jpg

 photo DSC_7213_zpssdmhd3ut.jpg

 photo DSC_7216_zps11cibnbl.jpg



Chiang Mai is a relaxing and pleasant place to be. It seems that there are still tons to be explored here, prompting one to revisit it again. Mountain bike trip... that's definitely on my list of to-dos!

 photo DSC_7170_zpsgdcsn4pn.jpg
Lazy morning in Chiang Mai

 photo DSC_7030_zpsu425uadx.jpg
A grandma selling mango rice cakes balancing a mango on her head. Not sure why!

 photo DSC_7224_zpsehifya2i.jpg

 photo DSC_7238_zpssf5ryjkh.jpg
The special one for the special someone.

 photo DSC_7239_zpsu4r7krqz.jpg
The very majestic yet humble looking Yang Tree.

 photo DSC_7240_zps4cq18rh9.jpg

 photo DSC_7246_zpsnvdmhdpu.jpg

 photo DSC_7247_zpsvzgatwpm.jpg

 photo Pano05_zpsj9xknxxo.jpg

 photo DSC_7244_zpspxq9yf38.jpg

 photo DSC_7272_zpsboujwdgv.jpg

 photo DSC_7282_zpssvjvcebe.jpg

 photo DSC_7284_zpsvsgfohjy.jpg

 photo DSC_7281_zpselq9qfsz.jpg

 photo DSC_7303_zpsy29b1enp.jpg

 photo DSC_7308_zpsuq1mpnve.jpg

 photo DSC_7310_zpsol8yovff.jpg

 photo DSC_7313_1_zpsa7ihtkdg.jpg

 photo DSC_7318_zpsk0agpv4e.jpg
Monk vs the fancy world.

 photo DSC_7319_zpspsx1nafx.jpg

 photo DSC_7323_zps1mia8iqm.jpg

 photo DSC_7324_zpsb6fowikh.jpg

 photo DSC_7325_zpskmjv73o0.jpg

 photo DSC_7326_zpstlwmprnv.jpg

 photo DSC_7331_zpsix7shjl7.jpg

 photo DSC_7337_zpsg7ti9gtq.jpg

Thursday, April 9, 2015

Thailand 2015: Bangkok

Thailand is one place that is so familiar yet completely strange because it seems that everyone’s been to Thailand, and that it has such a strong representation in all forms of media, and that Thai cuisine is always a popular choice no matter where you go or who you ask. Yet, I’ve never set foot on this popular yet mysterious nation. That’s my bad.

To be clear, I’ve had Singaporean style Thai food, Taiwanese style Thai food and American style Thai food, but I know that none of these are truly authentic. Since young my impression of Thai food isn’t the spice or sour, but one particular dish – Pineapple fried rice. It’s always been my favorite and the one thing that I look forward to. However while I was in grad school and told my Thai classmate how I loved Pineapple fried rice, he just had this strange look on his face. Apparently, pineapple fried rice is not Thai at all. Since then I’ve had doubts on every self-proclaimed Thai cuisine and is determined to seek the true authentic Thai taste.

Also, talking about impression of Thailand, of course there are many positives expectations that the media has portrayed. Then there’s others like the movie Hang Over 2…. On well, exciting!

 photo DSC_6803_zpsnavtft4x.jpg

 photo DSC_6804_zpsok3rzt0y.jpg

 photo DSC_6809_zps0yyx7a53.jpg
The most famous shrine in Bangkok, people who have asked for blessings come back to pay tribute and show appreciation, hiring the dancers to perform a brief dance and song.

Just like many, but not all, airports in South East Asian countries, the airport is not much to be desired. Granted that we took a budget airline and landed at a not-so-international airport, the immigration officer just doesn’t seem to be very keen in getting people moving. Strangely, this reminded me of US customs at the “Aliens” line.

Bangkok is a very polarized intersection between ideologies and reality. It is a mixture of polished surfaces and grit, with some very interesting and adventurous architectural designs, something that doesn’t exist in Taiwan, but the chaotic street scene is what I actually find familiarity in. It is also a very polarized intersection between ideologies and reality, with the said polished architecture, massive malls and MRT filled with relatively well-to-do folks and the roads frequent by very expensive cars, along with street vendors, Tuk-Tuk, old public buses and homeless folks. Ok this isn’t really anything strange so there’s nothing much to debate here. However, being a religious country, and unlike many other religious countries, Thailand has opened its welcoming arms to tourism from very early on, and the influx of foreign influences has since co-existed with traditional values in a strange yet interesting way.

 photo DSC_6820_zpsohxjo5bj.jpg
It’s like night club on wheels!

 photo DSC_6829_zpse12tpazx.jpg
Everyone’s a VIP in Thailand!

 photo DSC_6840_zpsbn1semp3.jpg
A tunnel of temptations for shopping addicts.

I am sure that any western tourist will not find it hard to navigate in Thailand because the infrastructure has long adopted to English speaking users. English is already a normal part of Thai lifestyle, unlike Taiwan, and foreigners on streets are as common as Tuk-Tuks. To me, the contrast/irony comes with the intersection between religion, tourism and everything in between.

Bangkok, or rather Thailand, is filled with temples. To say that Taiwan has too many temples, it will be lame to compare to Thailand. Thai Buddhist temples are also almost always in gold. Very bling, but in a very graceful way. People pay their respect to rules and regulations when visiting temples especially the very tourisy ones. However it is also in such places where crimes take place most frequently. Warnings that remind tourists to secure their precious belongings against thieves are everywhere, and to me this is such a huge contrast with what I know about Thailand, which mainly is its beautifully kind people. It is also said that most of these thieves are actually foreigners from surrounding and less fortunate countries, which I will believe because this is similar to other high crime “first world” cities, especially in European cities. I just find this a very unfortunate situation. Otherwise, like its weather, Thailand and its people are warm and welcoming.

 photo DSC_6842_zpskz0zk7ye.jpg
Such a pimpin’ ride!

 photo DSC_6853_zpsacbl75ie.jpg
It like a video game!

 photo DSC_6860_zpsticgiign.jpg

 photo DSC_6863_zpsfxbuan1s.jpg

 photo DSC_6864_zps8pghkfrl.jpg

 photo DSC_6866_zpsuj6d6yib.jpg

 photo DSC_6867_zpsjkn14muf.jpg

 photo DSC_6868_zpsjtvl4wml.jpg
Grand palace with Chinese style statues.

 photo DSC_6869_zpsbcgle54x.jpg
They even have robes for tourists who’s had too little to dress to enter temples.

 photo DSC_6883_zpskepshwad.jpg

 photo DSC_6884_zpsoht3dmag.jpg

 photo DSC_6889_zps1djztc2i.jpg

 photo Pano02_zps4drhl6a6.jpg

 photo DSC_6896_zpsdchitokz.jpg

 photo DSC_6907_zpskaxgqwok.jpg

 photo DSC_6908_zpspqhy9efm.jpg
The sign actually says “Do not take off shoes here”, yet accompanied by a graphic that puts a big “cross” on a shoe icon. It seems that people are just unsure what this conflicting message means and choose not to take the risk, therefore all the shoes at the steps where they aren’t supposed to be.

 photo DSC_6912_zpscglpcjmt.jpg

 photo DSC_6923_zpszkzhvs7c.jpg

 photo Pano03_zpstiqrhwpw.jpg

 photo DSC_6924_zpscl0fteh7.jpg

 photo DSC_6929_zpszgthinkt.jpg
Wandered into a side alley and caught this scene. Passer by kept walking with her eyes affixed to TV despite all the chaos surrounding it.

 photo DSC_6935_zpsbwpn5tfl.jpg

 photo DSC_6937_zpslyudyymn.jpg

 photo DSC_6939_zpsgvbcq1g6.jpg

 photo DSC_6942_zpswqtnowft.jpg

 photo DSC_6945_zpspe9buzvt.jpg

 photo DSC_6948_zpsns5bewkg.jpg

 photo DSC_6949_zpsyhria1mv.jpg

 photo DSC_6955_zpsheu4gy6b.jpg

 photo DSC_6963_zpsd4muuvq2.jpg
HYPERDRIVE MODE!!!

 photo DSC_6965_zps1afnzvcq.jpg
One of the most popular seafood “restaurant” in Chinatown.

 photo DSC_6968_zpsqb0xrfsr.jpg
Getting ready for Chinese New Year

 photo DSC_6969_zpsmixdglot.jpg

 photo DSC_6970_zpsztxbkjcc.jpg

 photo DSC_6971_zps6ykapplp.jpg

 photo DSC_6973_zpswlkxe1tc.jpg
Thailand has arguably the best Hainanese Chicken Rice!

 photo DSC_6981_zpsecxfdj9g.jpg