Cowing Around: Thailand 2015: Chiang Mai

Chiang Mai is another huge tourist attraction. Being the second largest city in Thailand, it offers an entirely different vibe from Bangkok, something I enjoy much more. The general atmosphere in Chiang Mai is much more laid back than Bangkok. I guess it’s because the majority of the tourist activities are more recreational and outdoor in nature. It was a very pleasant surprise to find the wide array of activities available in Chiang Mai upon arriving at the airport, greeted by the wall full of brochures introducing activities ranging from handicraft village visits to mountain bike rides to elephant park visits. However that ONE place that really caught my attention was ….. OMG CUDDLE WITH TIGER CUBS!!!!

This is one store begging for confusion.

Putting on one of these is how you get your ass kicked!

Very familiar sight.

The ride of a life time!!!

Chiang Mai's downtown looks as though it's having a Grand Prix 24/7 365 days a year!

We arrived on Sunday night, in time for the big event in town, which is the Sunday night market. Walking on Chiang Mai streets, it seemed to be more like a “countryside” atmosphere. There’s no polished high rises like Bangkok. The roads are narrower. I won’t say that the traffic is any better or worse than Bangkok, but it’s simply a lot more manageable. To me it’s a much more relaxing town and definitely more “my kind of town”.

Signs of tourism is everywhere, even more so than Bangkok. Foot and body massages, three different kinds of taxis, food stands, souvenir vendors as well as rug shops that makes you feel intimidated with their hyper eager intention to sell you something.

A father selling crepes while the boys use the side-walk as their living room.

The streets were rather empty at this moment because everyone’s at the night market, and that’s where we were heading. However let’s take a step back and talk about something else. Another country altogether, but highly relevant. China. I was actually trying to avoid this topic while talking about Bangkok, but I guess it played a significant part of my experience in Thailand that it should be mentioned. Chinese tourists are no news. They are everywhere for better or worse. However, and to put it in a politically incorrect description, they are sort of like migrating invasive species. It’s a love-hate relationship. Locals love them for the revenue they bring, but dislike the consequences and aftermath they leave behind. Of the most immediate sign of Chinese tourism influence is that on top of English signs, almost every one of it is also accompanied by Chinese translations. In Chiang Mai, there are also lots and lots of Chinese cars on the streets. I don’t mean cars made in China, but cars driven here from China, with Chinese number plates by Chinese tourists. A quick check on Google map shows that it’s not a quick trip by any means. And according a local taxi driver, she complains that Chinese tourists cause many accidents due to their unfamiliarity of local traffic and driving culture. Most significantly, Chinese tourists have changed the way Thai interacts with foreigners. They start to profile them. The westerners are great visitors, but they are mostly low budget travelers, so places like hostels, bars, massage places love them. Chinese tourists want to be treated like an emperor, but a stingy one. They want the best treatment for the lowest price, slashing prices by obscene amounts in the beginning of any bargain negotiations that feels like an out right insult and here’s a story.

My mom walked pass this clothing store and was interested in an item. A taxi driver that drove us from the airport told us that we can start our bargain from half price, and that’s what my mom did (plus she’s always competitive in this particular activity), and the shop owner, a Chinese descendent who spoke some very slow Chinese said,” You Chinese don’t be too smart!” This is like a soft yet powerful punch in the face, filled with sarcasm that stings. My mom got the message, still liked the item, and bought it at a reasonable price anyways. People in Chiang Mai have developed a particular impression of Mainland Chinese that us non-Mainland Chinese have to find ways to differentiate ourselves from them to avoid being treated the same way. Not bargaining in disrespectful way is one place to start with. The point is, I believe that people in Chiang Mai used to be completely loving folks who show wide open arms for any international visitor. Now that open arms are just as widely open, but with a sentiment that acts like a defensive armor.

I realized that most Thai food exist in the form of salad.

The Sunday night market is crowded, very crowded and massive. Unlike Taiwanese night markets, the Chiang Mai Sunday night market has more thoughts in its organization. It basically runs through the entire downtown forming a cross, with the main vendors, mostly souvenirs and handicraft related items on the main street and food vendors on the side. There are plenty of signs to remind people that alcohol is banned, with disposable bins regularly placed. Temples share their spaces for visitors to enjoy their meals as well as offer restrooms for public use. It's not just a tourist attraction, but a special night out for the locals too.

Another highlight of the trip was a cooking class to learn how to cook Thai cuisine, but first, they took us to a local market to be familiarize with local ingredients. To our surprise, the local market was very clean. One of the most significant sign of cleanliness is the lack of foul smell often associated with traditional markets. Here, they completely separate poultry and seafood from fresh produce and dry goods, therefore the fresh produce and dry goods area is always clean and pleasant. The vendors also took very much care to present their goods in neat ways. It just seems that they take a lot of pride in what they do, which is absolutely admirable. One theory I can come up with to explain this situation is, the cooking class company made a deal with the market that they will bring tourists to this market particularly, and therefore the market vendors make special effort to keep every thing in order. When the market is clean and pleasant, it attracts more locals who are the real money spender. It's a Win-Win situation!

Cars and mansions and electric fans for the deceased. May be hot down there, just in case.

Eggs of all sizes!

The famous Thai rice.

Looks crispy!

Strawberry vendor!

Traditional Thai tea and coffee

Girl couldn't hold her laughter from the comedy she was watching and shares it with her dad.

Making coconut milk.

Chiang Mai is a relaxing and pleasant place to be. It seems that there are still tons to be explored here, prompting one to revisit it again. Mountain bike trip... that's definitely on my list of to-dos!