Taitung is a place that needs no introduction especially when I've plenty of entries here about this beautiful county. To me it's like "coming home" rather than visiting as a tourist. Yes it's been a full year and many things have changed, but the perspective of how I look at the changes have become more of local who's been away, and judging the changes from similar approach too. As I drove from Route 9 all the way north to Taitung city, familiar sights brought back memories. I am not exactly too familiar with the region south of Taitung City, but have passed by several times either on car or train. It's a familiar route with familiar colors and smell. It was in the late afternoon as I arrived at the city and decided to drop by the Ocean side park to try my luck with the famous "Bombed Scallion Cake". This one is particularly delicious, sold by a stand at the beach park from late afternoon and often sold out quickly. I was lucky and the queue was still there, so I quickly parked my car and got in the line.
I don't have the photo of the scallion cake anymore but I will try my best to describe what's so special about it. Basil. That's what's most strikingly different about it. First they made a pile of dough and let it sit in the air for a while, then flatten it and pan fry it in a shallow layer of oil. In a way it's being deep dried, but not like fried chicken. Then if you wish to add an egg, they will dry an egg at the same pan and cover it with the now ready scallion cake, along with a handful of basil leaves. Before they put it in a paper bag, they will top it off with thick soy sauce. How does it taste? Ok let me describe how regular ones taste. A regular scallion cake will be greasy and somewhat dry. The cake will be dense and a little on the chewy side. Flavor wise, not many layers. Just soy sauce and a light tint of scallion, the rest of oil and starch. The way this "Bombed" scallion is being fried by the oil makes it fluffy inside, meaning that when you take a bite and tear the dough apart, it's not tough and comes off easily. Instead of being dry and greasy, it is actually very juicy. For some reason, the steam from inside of the cake, mixed with the soy sauce makes it very flavorful, topped with a strong addition of basil. The end result is one simple but unforgettable combination of taste, fragrance and texture.
Next stop is a must. This isn't one of those publically recognized iconic Taitung must-have food item, but it's definitely a personal favorite. It's ZhengQi tofu custard. First of all, I am not saying that there's anything special about this tofu custard, and that's what makes it so good. It's authentic. You see, for a time, the good old traditional tofu custard disappeared and people only sold the "improved" and modernized tofu custard with different flavors and a weird fake texture. It tasted somewhere in between pudding and jelly, and no presence of the soy bean anymore. It tastes synthetic like everything else is becoming, and the search for the real traditional versions become something people miss.
Traditional ones did come back, but for the most part, not entirely. Many stores claim that they sell traditional tofu custards, but they are either of the wrong texture or lack the presence of soy bean taste. This particular tofu custard is everything I expect as being traditional, and it's cheap!
Well, apparently they've increased the price, but is still well within the affordable range, and I have absolutely no issue with the price increase! Actually, coming all the way here, I'd have bought one even if they charged twice as much.
Such a simple desert that brings such a surge of satisfaction. It's like mission accomplished, but will always come back. This tofu custard being my very own personal favorite instead of one that's being already recognized by everyone is like a gem I've found, and with that comes personal attachment. It's MY precious, not yours, his, hers or theirs. MINE!
And while I was looking for a place to give a quick shower to my car after a day of hustle on the mountain and ocean roads, I drove by a place which almost slipped my mine. It's the oyster noodle shop that my Taitung friend love. Me too, I loved it too! Again they sell in limited quantity and often sold out when I came here, so I quickly found a parking spot and went for the large bowl. Yesssss...... another "good because it's done right, not because it's fancy" kind of satisfaction made me have faith in humanity again.
Although I've had three items by now, I am not exactly full, but is plenty to last for the rest of the night. I did find a convenient car wash service at a gas station, after which I headed straight for the place where I will station myself for the next four days.
Selective sadness... or happiness on demand?
Upon arriving at my poor man's hotel and unloaded much of my stuffs from my car, I quickly washed up and was ready to set to go out for my long waited night photography, especially after the failed attempts at Mt. Fushou and Mt. Hehuan. As I drove on, I saw two of the kids I used to teach sitting by the side of the road at mid night. I pull over, rolled down my window and both of them came on to check the car out like curious cats.
"Do you remember me?"
"Oh yes!!!!!!"
"So what are you two doing out here this late? Aren't the adults home?"
"No they are all at the funeral"
"Funeral? Who passed away?"
"His dad" The older kid (Webber) pointed at the younger one (Bolin)
"Oh!" Bolin's dad had suffered a stroke for many years from alcohol abuse.
At this point, I was a little afraid to ask them about my plan, which is to take them out with me while I tour the region.
"So I am going to drive around and take photos the day after tomorrow, Webber do you want to join me?"
Of course Webber said yes, but Bolin wanted to come as well.
"So Bolin, you wanna join us? But your dad just pass and he's going to be buried tomorrow"
"It's ok! Actually, we can go out tomorrow afternoon, the burial is in the morning"
"Urg..... aren't you sad that your dad has passed?"
".... tomorrow I will be sad!"
"What about today?"
"Nope!"
"The day after?"
"Nope!"
"Hmmm.... ok, well then, both of you two need to ask for your parents' permissions, and here's my contact number in case....."
So, selective sadness, or happiness on demand? I wish I can be as cheerful as Bolin is.
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